{"id":17918,"date":"2022-04-18T08:00:09","date_gmt":"2022-04-18T08:00:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/barazalab.com\/?p=17918"},"modified":"2023-07-06T23:24:03","modified_gmt":"2023-07-06T23:24:03","slug":"the-haunting-soul-of-nairobi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tuwele.com\/baraza_update\/the-haunting-soul-of-nairobi\/","title":{"rendered":"The Haunting Soul of Nairobi"},"content":{"rendered":"

by Eddy Ashioya<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

Everything is a mess. And by everything, I mean Nairobi. And by a mess, I still mean Nairobi.<\/p>\n

I grew up in the aughts, when E-Sir and K-Rupt were hailing the virtues of Nairobi and PiliPili was spicing the airwaves, when repping your hood was what\u2019s good\u2014”Twende tukawake; huko Nairobi West!\u201d \u201cSouth C\u2019s finest.\u201d \u201cNa wasee tumetoka Githurai!\u201d Remember those days?<\/p>\n

That was the time when being a Nairobian (coming from Nairobi didn\u2019t necessarily equate to being Nairobian<\/em>) was the stuff. But that kind of saccharine reflection has lost its lustre. Nothing lasts forever, and it\u2019s obvious now \u2013 Nairobi is a mess. It\u2019s all over the place in an annoying way, like finding out your plane ticket is scheduled for 12 midnight tonight and not tomorrow night as you had thought.<\/p>\n

Recently, a close buddy of mine gave up the Nairobi ghost and\u00a0moved back to Kakamega<\/a>, twisting the knife in my back. He got tired. (I\u2019ll tell you how the knife got there. Last year, a colleague had wedged said knife in my back, moving to the Coast and occasionally sending me pictures of himself in a\u00a0dera<\/em>\u2014he says it\u2019s a kanzu but it\u2019s his word against mine).<\/p>\n

But I get it. I really do. I too have flirted with the idea of moving out, seduced by the lofty hills of Nanyuki, the morning mist of Mt Kenya catching my eye. And it\u2019s not just because of Nairobi\u2019s rent prices,\u00a0which I\u2019ll have you know is highest in Africa<\/a>\u2014but this city \u00a0is one busy blink-and-you-miss-it construction den. This is the epitome of\u00a0a city as a construction site.\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n

The Maasai must be irked, having named Nairobi, \u2018Enkare Nairobi\u2019 (meaning a place of cool waters, which Nairobi was apparently known for). Now Nairobi is a different kind of cool\u2014 dotted by hotheads and an expansive skyline, its urban planning cracks filled by a deluge of high-rise buildings that epitomise the phrase \u2018premium mediocre\u2019. Nairobi is chilling with the big boys.<\/p>\n

This is the gift of Nairobi, but also its curse. It\u2019s always undergoing makeup; ring lights, sound, camera action! We\u2019re constantly moving things here, moving things there, changing this, sky-lifting that. Always building something, somewhere, sometime, somehow. It feels like a country within a city.<\/p>\n

I wished my friends well as they left what was to me \u2014 at one time \u2014 the greatest city in the world, simultaneously enamoured and incensed at their decision. Like so much else in modern life, the pathos of that departure was concealed by a seemingly robust exoskeleton of decorum. Nairobi makes you listless \u2014 teetering between restlessness and recklessness, more often than not languishing in the valley, waiting for another peak.<\/p>\n

When my friends moved out, it made me think of where I stand with regards to my erstwhile beloved Nairobi. What am I still doing here?<\/p>\n

Kilimani, Kileleshwa and Lavington are\u00a0no longer what they used to be.<\/a>\u00a0Kilimani, if you squint carefully, is now just Pipeline with a Gucci belt. When you are not grappling with an acute water shortage, with lorries offering \u2018Clean Water Services\u2019 raking through the neighbourhoods like hungry ants, it is the fluctuating weather: Nairobi\u00a0has been getting hotter.<\/a>\u00a0And then, we all know it\u2019s going to rain in a few weeks (we hope), and so, flooding.<\/p>\n

That\u2019s before we take a ride into the bodaboda world, or as my editor likes to call it, the nduthiverse, not to mention The Expressway, the SGR, the matatus\u2026<\/p>\n

But everything has to have that subterfuge. Nairobi’s lingua franca has become this tedious little code, which prevents anyone from ever saying exactly what they mean.<\/p>\n

\u201cNaenda hivi nacome.\u201d \u201cTutafutane.\u201d \u201cSi ni me nakushow.\u201d<\/p>\n

This is the strange idiom of the city, like a liturgy with no service. Nairobi is a church without a God. And that\u2019s really the great tragedy of this situation\u2014that as Nairobi has become emptier and soulless, so have the people.<\/p>\n

Still, I think Prezzo had it right the first time. This is just how we do it. This is how we get down. I ain\u2019t going nowhere. I am as much a part of the story of Nairobi, as Nairobi is a part of my story. This is\u00a0My City, My Town.<\/em><\/p>\n

***<\/p>\n

This week\u2019s musings continues our tradition of inviting members of our community to write From The Curator\u2019s Desk, and for this edition, we were happy to hand it over to Eddy Ashioya, who responded to our invitation with a strong pitch that we are excited to share with you and hope you enjoyed. Eddy is a writer from Kakamega, Kenya; he has an unrequited love for chapati.<\/em><\/p>\n

We’ll be handing over this section to guest writers from time to time, so please do reach out to us at info@barazalab.com if you\u2019re interested in writing this section and you have something of interest to share with our community \u2014 a trend you\u2019ve noticed or something you\u2019d like us to think about.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

by Eddy Ashioya Everything is a mess. And by everything, I mean Nairobi. And by a mess, I still mean Nairobi. 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